The Li River Cruise

There are many baoting options on the Li River but only one, official Li River Cruise. This departs daily (certain holidays and adverse water levels excepted) at 09:30 from docks to the south of Guilin. Your cruise normally includes transport to these, and the assistance of a guide to get you on-board the correct boat, even if they do not come with you the whole way.

On arrival you should be shown to your assigned seats and given a free bottle of water. The included lunch is served later. Everything else costs - especially the optional dishes which always seem more interesting than the fare on offer. Be sure you know what the price is before accepting anything.

It is normal to prevent passengers from going up onto the viewing deck whilst the boat is maneuvering in the docks. Once underway though, you should get upstairs for the best views of the scenery and of the life along the river. Don't worry about the weather too much - these two aspects can be enjoyed in all but the most foul conditions.

Your cruise will take you past interestingly named peaks such as  Nine-oxen Ridge and Yearning-for-husband Rock before Yangdi. The next section (until Xingping) is considered the very best. Look out for The Painted Hill of Nine Horses, a motif you may well have seen on paintings for sale at airports and stations.

From Xingping you can look back at the scenery that inspired the scene on the back of every 20 Yuan note.

The cruise ends in Yangshuo. This remarkable little market town has positively blossomed with a prolific tourist industry. If you plan on staying then check out our sister site Yangers.com

The cruise normally takes from 3 to 5 hours. The cruise takes longer when the water level is low as there are some difficult shoals to navigate. There are a few days each year when there is insufficient water to complete the cruise. In this case it is normal for the cruise to end in Xingping. In the event of too much water (usually around May/June) then the cruise is likely to be cancelled in advance for several days.

Impressions of the Li River Cruise

Names and stories for Peaks along the Li River Cruise

A few peaks along the Li River Cruise are famous and their names appear on maps. Many only have names familiar to the local villagers. Many have taken names to fill up the River Guide's itinerary. These names can be obvious, but most are obscure to foreigners and often need a little explanation.This article attempts to pass on some of the more interesting names and their stories.

Let's proceed in the order that you will encounter them:

Hat Crag

Shaped like an old style hat, this peaks name falls into the class of 'obvious'.

Banbian Qidu

A bit further on, on the right (west) bank, an impressive mountain with a sheer cliff to the water blocks the riverside path. At this point it is necessary to cross. The Chinese name translates as 'Wonderful Ferry on Half the River' - a very poetic way of expressing that fact.

Carp Hanging on the Cliff

A large stain on the cliff here resembles a carp. If you don't see it at first, don't worry. Many of these features take a fair bit of imagination. Carp are an auspicious symbol in China. They are thought to have the power to leap over waterfalls, and are therefore associated with the passing of barriers - particularly examinations and the like.

Brush Peak

This mountain looks a bit like a Chinese calligraphy brush. That prompted the story of a heavenly artist paiting the Li River Scroll but, being so pleased with his work, then forgot to take his brush back with him.

Nine-Horse Frescoe Hill

The face of this large, vertical cliff is mottled with dark patches said to look like horses in different aspects. Some have heads lowered and are drinking water; one has a head high and is neighing; some are galloping and others standing still.

A local ballad claims 16 horses - 9 Zhuangyuan and 7 Bangyan (where these titles refer to the Best Performing and Second-Best Performing Candidates in Imperial Examinations).

Another reference says that when the Monkey King, Sun Wukong, was put in charge of the horses in the Heavenly Palace he freed some and they settled here amongst the charming hills and lush pastures.

Seven Fairy Maidens Coming to the Human World

This peak is so famous it features on the back of the 20 Yuan note. Knowing this will help you understand the sudden rush of locals holding up a brown note and take a snapshot; and otherwise peculiar activity.

The story begins with an immortal banished to earth as a lowly cowhered to atone for a minor transgression. This cowherd has a miserable life but fortunately has a fairy godmother - in the shape of a cow. When she dies (do fairy godmothers do that?!) she advises him to keep her hide and to visit a ceratin spring.

When he arrives at the spring the cowherd sees Seven Fairy Maidens bathing. He snatches the clothes of one and so when the others get dressed to return home she remains naked.

The cowherd now offers her clothes and, instead of giving him a good bashing like he deserves, she marries him.

Now this Fairy turns out to be the Jade Emperor's daughter responsible for weaving rainbows and clouds. He is furious with the couple and sends his wife to get the daughter back.

The daughter goes with her mother but the cowherd decides to give chase. He puts on his fairy godmother's hide which turns out to be a magic jacket. At this point the mother takes out her silver hairpin and cuts a great tear in the heavens - the band of stars we know as the Milky Way.

A large flock of Magpies recognise true love and form a bridge so that the cowherd can meet with his wife. The mother is moved by this display and allows one meeting each year on the 7th day of the 7th month. This day is now known as Qixi or Chinese Valentines Day.

And as you arrive into Yansghuo you can see:

Red Cliff Peak

Said to be as red as Cinnabar Dye.

Old Banyan Peak

Like a big, old, gnarled Banyan Tree.

Dragonhead Hill

Like a the gaping mouth of a fiercesome beast.

Green Lotus Peak

Towering above the docks reserved for foreigners and VIPs.